Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
